Schooling up on denim: natural indigo

While most jeans (including most pairs at DC4) are dyed with synthetic indigo, this wasn't always the case. Back in the days natural indigo, harvested from plants like the classic 'Indigofera Tinctoria' or woad ('Isatis Tinctoria'), was the only available option. Natural indigo was widely used countries like Japan, China and India.

Different results
When jeans are dyed with natural indigo, they usually don't fade the way you're used to. Don't expect high contrast lines and noticeable results after just a couple months of wear. Natural dye takes years and years to fade, and the result will be a lot more subtle. A proper dye can hold its colour very well.

Indigo plants
Natural indigo dye can be harvested from different plants, resulting in different shades of indigo. The amount of dips also has influence on the hue. Also notice that natural indigo is usually more 'green cast' instead of the 'red cast' you've seen on synthetic indigo. Sometimes sulphur is added to the dye to make the result a bit darker. Synthetic indigo has been around since the late 19th century, first released by German company BASF.

Jeans dyed with natural indigo at DC4
We just got a pair of 24oz (and a brutal 27oz after soak!) Samurai S5000AI hand-dyed with 100% natural indigo. 'Ai' is Japanese for indigo (藍), but also for love (愛). The S5000AI is a straight cut with a medium rise, and made in a very limited batch.

These Samurai jeans are also hand-dyed. A very time consuming process, but the indigo is able to penetrate deeper into the fibers. Also, the fibers are less agitated because fewer chemicals are involved in the dyeing process.

Natural indigo doesn't come cheap, but you'll have a very special pair of jeans that will take years and years to fade. Samurai Jeans isn't the only brand that makes outstanding jeans with a natural dye though. Studio D'artisan, Momotaro, The Flat Head and Pure Blue Japan are known for their natural indigo jeans too.

Introducing: the DC4 Forum!

We're proud to show you our latest addition: the DC4 Japanese Denim Forum. Discuss anything related to denim, and show off your worn in pairs and collections! Tell us what you think which brands we need to add to our portfolio and share tips 'n tricks about sizing and washing. Of course joining the forum is free. Start posting today!

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Denim jackets - a look at the evolution of style

Denim jackets have been around since the late 19th century. The most iconic denim brands have put out several types of denim jackets over the past decades. And just like a classic pair of jeans, like the Levi's 501 or the Lee 101, those jackets have evolved over time. Let's have a look at the archetypes of jean jackets.

Type I
The jacket where it all started. Pleated fronts, one pocket on the left side, and a very typical boxy fit. The earliest models came without a pocket flap, and Levi's iconic red tab wasn't added until 1936. At the back you'll find a cinch to give the jacket a bit of a taper. The model number of these jackets at Levi's is 506XX.

Type II
The successor is called, surprisingly, the 507XX. A pocket was added on the other side and the cinch was replaced with two flaps to adjust the waist. This classic makes up for our personal favourite.

Type III
Now for the most well-known denim jacket style we'll take a look at the Type III, or 557XX. The boxy fit is replaced by a more flattering cut, with two pointed flaps. The Type III is also known as the 'trucker jacket'. It came out in the 1950's for the first time, and it's still made today.

Naturally, DC4 Berlin carries some jackets as well. The Japanese have taken these all-time classics and made their own versions of it. Expect wear and tear like you get on your Japanese jeans - high contrasts, crazy fades and that feeling that every single detail has really been thought through. For instance, check out this Type II jacket by Dry Bones or super-heavy Type III by, who else, Iron Heart. They'll accompany your life for many years to come.

In the coming weeks we're expecting more denim jackets to arrive from Japan by The Flat Head and Samurai Jeans.

A close look at Pure Blue Japan's 'Cobalt Blue' denim

Pure Blue Japan is always innovating and working on new fabrics. They create denim with amazing texture and colour: the cobalt blue denim is no exception. The warp is dyed in a dark indigo, the weft has a breath-taking bright blue colour. The exact hue is hard to capture on camera, but we tried our best.

The 14 oz cobalt blue denim is available in two cuts: the XX-017, which is tapered, and the XX-018, which is a classic slim straight fit. The denim is unsanforized (shrink-to-fit), so keep this in mind when choosing your size.

Toys McCoy: available exclusively at DC4 Berlin

We are very proud to carry Toys McCoy exclusively for Europe at DC4 Berlin. The first batch has arrived at the store and is now available in our online store!

Toys McCoy is well known in Japan for reproducing vintage items with an immaculate amount of detail. The brand has been founded by Okamoto Hiroshi in 1987, and Okamoto-san has been responsible for the vintage flight jacket craze that hit Japan in 1996. They also like to create modern takes on vintage clothing, by doing rather unconventional collaborations with brands like A Bathing Ape. Hell, Toys McCoy even makes Steve McQueen action figures, motor cycle helmets by Buco and they have the license for The Greatful Dead, Mopar, Shelby Cobra, Felix the Cat, Bugs Bunny and Warner Brothers!

The clothing made by Toys McCoy that we carry at DC4 lives up to the highest standards you'll ever find. For instance, take a close look at the Toys McCoy Engineer Denim. The 13,5 oz jeans are reproductions of jeans that were made during World War II for American engineers working on airplanes and are absolutely stunning. The denim of these jeans is amongst the best we ever laid our hands on. We know we're not subtle with superlatives, but Toys McCoy deserves that kind of recognition.

Please note that not everything is available from our online shop. Due to copyright issues we're not able to sell everything online. If you would like to enquire about other Toys McCoy products (t-shirts, sweaters, jackets, other boxer shorts) at DC4, please send an e-mail to contact@dc4.de or leave us a message on Facebook.

Exclusive at DC4: personalize your Japanese denim with a custom leather patch

If wearing in your own pair of raw denim isn't personal enough, you can now order a special leather patch to make your pair stand out. Choose from one of the templates or contact us if you'd like your own design featured on your pair of Japanese denim!

The leather patch can replace the one already on your new jeans, or you can add it elsewhere. You can also just order a patch in case you'd want to place it on a pair you already own.

We're using heavy grade, high-quality leather that'll age beautifully with your favourite denim. Of course we'll stitch the patch firmly onto your pair in-store. You'll only find this service at DC4 Berlin. Please contact us at contact@dc4.de for more details. Check out some examples:

DC4's Denim Wear & Care Guide

Among denim lovers, many people have a different point of view when it comes to washing and caring for your pair of jeans. This is how we at DC4 Berlin think you should treat your Japanese denim.

Soaking your new pair
When you're getting a fresh pair of raw denim at DC4, chances are they the jeans are 'unsanforized', or shrink-to-fit. This means you have to soak the jeans before you wear them in order to get them to the right size. Unsanforized denim usually shrinks about 1 or 2 inches in the waist, and 2 inches in length – please keep this in mind when choosing your size. Are the jeans sanforized? Then don't bother: wear them as soon as you can.

When you get home with your jeans, lay them down in your bathtub, sink or a bucket. Pour in the hottest tap water you can get (don't pour boiling hot water on the jeans, this will cause the leather patch to shrink to oblivion) and submerge your jeans for an hour or so. Take them out, and let them hang until they are dry. Never use a tumble dryer to speed things up: this will only cause the denim to become soft and mushy, and the legs might twist.

If you're not sure if the jeans you want are sanforized, never hesitate to contact us (in-store, via e-mail, Facebook or Tumblr) and ask. Also, if you don't want to go through the trouble of soaking, DC4 will happily soak the jeans for you in our Soaking Room – free of charge.

How long should I wait before washing my denim? 
Many folks are sure they need to wait at least six months before letting their jeans touch even a drop of rainwater, but please: don't worry about washing your jeans 'too early'. All jeans sold at DC4 Berlin are of the highest quality you can find, and will hold their indigo just fine. It will not matter if you decide to wash your jeans every two weeks or every three months. Only hold out on washing your pair if you're looking for high-contrast fading. If you want your jeans to last, make sure to wash them every now and then. The cotton will thank you.

Washing in the machine 
Turn your jeans inside out to avoid white lines running down the legs, and use a small amount of detergent. We recommend to use a special denim detergent, like Samurai's Thunder Soap. Wash at 30 or 40 degrees Celsius for a normal wash, and 60 if they are really filthy and/or you're looking for high contrast.

Washing without a machine 
For the least aggressive way of cleaning denim, wash your jeans by hand with a small amount of detergent in lukewarm water. Let them hang-dry. Alternatively, washing your jeans in the ocean is an option too – this was a popular method in the 1960's. Travel to a tropical island, wear your jeans and take them for a swim. You can rub a bit of sand on the greasy parts to clean more thoroughly. Rinse them in fresh water, and again, hang until dry.

Dry-cleaning
Dry-cleaning is something we don't recommend. Cotton that has been suffocated with grease and dirt for months, needs to be washed with water. Remember: your heavy duty pair of denim isn't a fancy wool suit.

Disclaimer 
This guide is not a way to tell you how to live your life. Enjoy your pair of Japanese denim the way you want to, and show off your worn-in pairs to your friends and us.